Pelion, Greece

Pelion is a mountain in the southeastern part of Thessaly, forming a hook-like peninsula between the Pagasetic Gulf and the Aegean Sea. Thickly forested, with both deciduous and perennial forests, it is a fascinating, time-locked part of the world where the mountains meet the sea, Greek Gods come on holiday and the mythological centaur originates.

Walking through the cobblestone streets of Agios Georgios on our first evening we met Eleni outside her small farm surrounded by baby goats. A subsistence farmer growing enough to feed herself and her family, we chatted for a while before buying eggs laid by her hens for breakfast the following morning. A warm welcome.

Mountain Bees

An afternoon with Thomas the bee keeper responsible for 250,000 bees; who in return are responsible for the pollination and therefore survival, of much of the flowers and plants on the mountain; which in return are responsible for the survival of the goats that graze them; which ultimately supply Thomas with meat and milk... full circle.

Thomas is a sturdy fella, hands tattooed with stings... he didn’t flinch once.

Ano Gatzea

Time-locked & Memory-stacked

Situated on a steep slope overlooking Pagasitikos Bay, Ano Gatzea is a village well off the beaten track. The houses are testimony to a prosperous past and an agropastoral economy where each household had to be self-sufficient to survive. Dimitris Papadopoulos’ hardware store, once at the bustling centre of Ano Gatzea, has remained largely undisturbed since the doors closed for the last time following his death over 40 years ago. His grandson Giorgos (pictured) showed us around. Fascinating place.

Time-locked, memory-stacked. No plastic.

sustainable grazing methods

Goat Bells

An afternoon with Kostas the shepherd, his herd of goats and Fedra the dog. Mimicking the way a wild herd would graze, Kostas walks his herd across different parts of the mountain every day, conscious that overgrazing would have a detrimental effect on the vegetation that sustains his animals. Time-consuming, yet sustainable.

night fishing


Vaios the night fisherman, was photographed just after sunset. Known as ‘pirofani’, from the words fire (πυρ) and light (φανός), the large lantern at the bow serves to attract specific species to his boat and also allows him to select the catch according to size. How nice to witness an approach that contrasts so starkly with commercial trawling methods.

Pizza and fireside chats

Back to our villa and a lesson in perfecting the art of wood-fired pizza.